Un Mes en Madrid

June 28, 2013

Sitting at a café in España you would never guess that the country was in the midst of a devastating financial crisis.  Over fifty percent youth unemployment and twenty percent in the general population, higher crime, and the constant admonishment of the EU, Spain is supposed to be in bad shape.  Yet the streets are bustling with life and commerce.  Almost all restaurants and cafés are full during meal hours.  The only stores that I see closed are those temporarily shut down because the owners are on vacation.  Very few ‘se aquila’ or ‘se vende’ (for rent or for sale) signs are seen. 

So where is the crisis?  Ask the locals and they will tell you times are tough.  Jobs are difficult to find.  Those who have them are working longer hours.  Deep austerity measures have been enforced by government without concern for the protests of citizens. 

Spain could be similar to the US in this respect though.  The recession supposedly hit us hard.  Yet most of us still had our cellphones, cable and game systems.  We still enjoyed a night out at the movie or restaurant or wherever.  We still owned a car or two.  And how many of us actually starved?

The situation appears the same here.  Times may be tough, and I’m sure that as in the US, some feel it more than others, but honestly, how bad off is a society that can enjoy the materialistic pleasures of life like good food and drink and entertainment?  But then again, I see only the surface of things.  I am not a citizen nor have I lived here for a significant amount of time.  I just call it as I see it. 

Since I have written this entry I have talked to a few Spaniards.  One in particular explained that the Spanish socialize differently than we do in the states.  For example, often we invite our friends to our homes and have cook outs and such.  The Spanish, on the other hand, usually socialize outside of the home.  They meet in public spaces like cafes and parks and such.  While it might appear as if they are out drinking and enjoyed meals, they might buy one beer and sip it until they go home or even share meals (which is common anyway).  Interesting.  

Un Mes en Madrid

June 27

As most people might expect and parents surely know, traveling with children is much different.  Plans have to be made around naps, potty time and all those other irritations that parents endure for their children.  The ordinarily fast paced attempt to see as many sites around the city as possible becomes instead the experiences of areas that we might never visit otherwise – the zoo, the public pools, the playgrounds and more. 

   

And believe it or not the extra down time provides an incomparable opportunity.  Most importantly it gives time to bond with family; eating together on the balcony, playing hide and seek and learning to read.  As an adult I also have time to catch up on reading and writing, time for meditation or self-reflection, and a good run in the morning. 

Madrid has numerous parks scattered across the large city of almost 3.5 million.  They get utilized very well.  Already we have been to three playgrounds and always there are children there.  The parks are well maintained with plenty of trees to provide shade from the blistering Madrid sun.  Hundreds of species of plants and flowers run along the paths made for the runners and those strolling aimlessly around.  People everywhere of all ages find some excuse to spend time in the parks.

Yesterday we visited Retiro, the largest and most unique of the parks.  Once upon a time, on my first visit to España nearly 15 years ago, this is where we spent most of our time.  All day and into the night the African immigrants beat bongo drums and smoked hash.  Street performers like mimes and wanna be Michael Jacksons earned a living honing their eccentric talents.  We didn’t get the opportunity to see any of this yesterday, but Sofiah and Kaia finally met Abril and Vera, the daughters of two friends of ours who live in Madrid.  Chasing pigeons and playing in the sand kept them happy.  Meanwhile, the adults watched, munching on tapas and drinking horchata.  Life has changed in the last fifteen years, but it’s still a blast.

Un Mes en Madrid

June 26

Yeah, that didn’t work.  It’s 4am and we have all been up for an hour at least.  Since I did not sleep on the plane I could have easily slept in this morning until daylight.  The girls, stretched across our laps on the plane ride, slept like babies.  If only I could sleep as easily as a child.

By 9am the little one got cranky.  It was easy to get her to nap.  The other, as she does often, wanted to stay up and play with her dolls.  Niki and I laid down as well, and it never fails that Sofiah climbs in bed and wakes us up as soon as we nod off. 

A couple of hours later we opened the blinds and made a bit of noise to wake the girls.  They didn’t budge.  Their bodies are trying to tell us they need the sleep so we let them although Niki and I are ready to go exploring.

The fridge is empty.  After a trip to the grocery yesterday we bought all we could carry and though it is only a few blocks away it’s heavy.  And so we stop for lunch again at one of the many restaurants with tables along the sidewalk with free tapas, potatoes with a cheese sauce this time, delicious.  We make up a good story or call the new food something we call it at home to get the girls to try it.  So far they love Fanta and the powdered chocolate.  I hope they expand their horizons a bit, either that or go hungry.

A park, Canal de Isabel, was within walking distance.  Two playgrounds with plenty of other kids, perfect for the girls.  We spent at least a couple of hours there.  Niki and I sat in the shade mostly while the girls played in the heat, but a dry heat, much more tolerable than the heavy, humid heat of Mississippi. The best part was watching the kids interact.  At this age, language is a small barrier.  They played with the other kids and seemed to listen to them intently.  Sofiah even used her small vocabulary when she yelled, “Para! to get the little boys to stop the tilt-a-whirl (whatever you call that thing that is similar to the Tea Cups at Disneyland).

The walk home isn’t so much fun.  The girls are tired, hungry, and not used to walking so far.  We cook spaghetti at the apartment and eat around the dinner table to add a sense of normalcy for the first time since we left.  They eat the best they have so far and by dark (11pm) they are pooped and fall fast asleep.

Un Mes en Madrid

June 25

At last, after months of planning and wondering if spending our full income tax check for plane tickets is worth it, here we are in España.  Our baggage was waiting and so was a long line of taxistas ready to take us to our destination.  An older man, a huge Real Madrid fan who had only recently become a driver after retiring from another job, chatted along the way and offered advice.  A driver’s disposition can often set the tone when arriving to a place.

Once we picked up the keys and arrived to our new apartment the girls made themselves at home quickly, running around and exploring.  They went in and out onto the balcony, claimed their own rooms, and turned the lights on and off because they could actually reach them. 

After settling in a bit we walked Calle de Santa Engracia to see what was available nearby.  The area seemed quiet and most of the shops were closed, many for vacacciones.  The sun sat alone and heavy in the sky but a cool breeze made the day perfect, especially when our first stop entailed free tapas and cerveza.  The girls surprised us again by being intrigued not with the traffic of the city and the African who approached us playing a bongo and wanted to sell us his trinkets, but by the pigeons.  What a waste of a good tapa!

10pm on our first day in Madrid.  We try to stay awake so that maybe, just maybe, our sleep schedule will become adjusted quickly.  It’s so much harder though when the sun is still up outside.  After a short nap this afternoon it may be even tougher.  Luckily for us the light does not penetrate the blinds and once we close them it might as will be dark.  Buenas noches.

Un Mes en Madrid

June 24, 2013

You would think that the plane ride would be the most fascinating part of a journey to children, especially the first one ever.  I mean, even as an adult I love the plane, watching the landscape beneath me get smaller.  The cars, buildings, interstates, rivers, ponds and trees become tiny specks until they mesh into one and then we reach the clouds and finally fly above them.  And yes, my children enjoyed it, but not as much as I expected.  The smaller one with her vivid imagination kept asking, “What if we fall from the sky?” and when we were over the ocean, “What if we fall and sharks eat us?”  She refused to look out of the window.  The other was focused on her electronics as most children (and even adults) are these days.  More exciting to them was the moving sidewalks and escalators at the airport.  With a five hour layover I bet my oldest daughter and I (and Rainbow Dash, her favorite My Little Pony) rode the same one near our departure gate twenty times.  Still, my girls traveled surprisingly well and I was proud.  

Mas Cositas de Argentina...

44.  'Club Atletico Boca Juniors' is the most well-liked and famous Argentine fútbol team.  They hold the international record of 17 international titles.  They play in La Boca, a famous neighborhood of Buenos Aires.

45.  'Hockey sobre patines' (Hockey on roller skates) is a well liked sport here.

46.  August 12 is 'Dia de los Niños.'  Children receive gifts just like on Christmas.  They have more holidays here than in the states it seems!

47.  Parque Ischigualasto (Valle de la Luna) boasts some of the world's oldest fossils, including some from Eoraptor Lunensis, considered to be the most primitive dinosaur in the world.  (For all you science buffs). 

48.  Gas stations and other businesses on the highway offer free hot water for travelers.  They fill up their thermos so they can always have a fresh cup of yerba mate (see 24).

49.  Jose de San Martin was the primary figure responsible for the independence of Argentina and other Latin American countries.  August 17th, the day of his death, is a national holiday.

50.  Domingo Faustino Sarimiento is one of the most revered figures in Argentina.  He was a politician, escritor, diplomat, journalist and educator.  After visiting the U.S., he modeled the Argentine school system on what he saw there and established numerous educational institutions.

51.  September 11 is teacher's day, another national holiday.  This was the day of Sarimiento's death.

52.  Most Argentines cannot stand the movie 'Evita'.  Madonna played the part of the actress/first lady Eva Peron.

53.  The yards in South America give new meaning to the term 'zero lot line'.

54.  Latin American Idol has a host that looks almost exactly like Ryan Seacrest!

55.  After fútbol games, the police guard the gates in riot gear and do not allow home fans to leave the stadium until the fans of the visiting team have completely left the area. 

56.  According to figures, the national minimum wage of Argentina is somewhere between 850 -950 pesos a month.  (around US $300).  Though the law stipulates that employers pay this wage, it is often not enforced.

57.  It’s nothing to see someone throw garbage on the ground.  This country needs to be educated on trash pick-up!

58.  'Vos' is used in place of 'tú' in many countries, including Argentina.  Basically, instead of hablas, one would say hablás.  The last syllable is stressed.  Not much difference really.  There are no stem changes in the 'vos'.

59.  The cult of Juan and Evita Perón is not as strong as one would think.   While many still respect them, others believe that they created a welfare state where Argentines now see nothing wrong with being unemployed.

60.  Machismo is alive and well in Argentina.

61.  There is no death penalty here.

62.  Nahualito is a lake monster or giant reptile reported to live in el Lago Nahuel Huapi near Bariloche, Argentina.  It is the Loch Ness Monster of Patagonia.

63.  Students' Day is a nationally recognized 'skip day' celebrated on the first day of spring.  All the students get together (locally of course) and throw a huge fiesta.

64.  Gauchito Gil is revered as a saint though the Catholic Church fails to recognize him as such.  Murdered by a policeman in 1878, today there are many statues (mostly on roadsides) where people stop to pray and ask favors.

65.  Huelgas (strikes) are very common.  Teachers, waiters, utility workers - almost every profession strikes at some time or another in hopes that their salaries will increase.  Often, this interferes with traffic, transportation, school, business, etc...

66.  There is no sales tax.

67.  All students in public and private primary and secondary schools are required to wear uniforms.

68.  Difunta Correa is another 'almost saint' with a large shrine dedicated to her.  People stop near the village of Vallecito to ask favors and pray, leaving everything imaginable - pictures, wedding dresses, license plates, uniforms, trophies, doll houses, toys, etc...  Legend has it that she died in the desert.  When her body was found, her infant son was still attached drinking milk from her tit.

69.  The 40th anniversary of the death of Ernesto 'Che' Guevarra was celebrated on October 8th.  Numerous commemorations took place around South America, especially in Argentina, Che's birthplace.

70.  'Che' is a term Argentines use to refer to each other as 'man'.  For example, "Que pasa che?"

71. Che Guevarra moved to a country home in Alta Gracia, Argentina as a boy because it was better for his asthma.

72.  The Argentina national rugby team advanced farther in the playoffs than ever before in its history before losing to South Africa.  They defeated France for 3^rd place.

73.  Tuesday the 13th, as opposed to Friday the 13th in the U.S., is unlucky in Latin America.

74.  Oktoberfest, la fiesta de cerveza, is celebrated the first two weeks of October in Villa Beligrano, a small town of German immigrants.  Though not as large as the one in Munich, it still attracts a huge amount of beer drinkers. 

 75.  The sidewalks are cleaned with kerosene in San Juan (?)

76.  Mother's Day is celebrated on the third Sunday of October.

77.  What is considered the first floor in a building in the U.S. is considered the ground floor here.  The second floor is the first floor and so on.

78.  Three species that are universal and overabundant - roaches, pigeons, and sparrows.

79.  The water in the sink and in the toilet bowl does NOT drain in the opposite direction than it does in Northern hemisphere. (Coriolis Effect).

80.  The legal drinking age is 18.

81.  Cigarettes and alcohol are sold at the universities.

82.  Alcohol is NOT sold at soccer matches (you can imagine why).

83.  80's hairstyles, clothing, music, mullets and many other things are still in style and going strong!

84.  Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner wins the presidential elections in Argentina, succeeding her husband Nestor Kirchner.  She will be Argentina's second female president and the first to actually be elected.

85.  The retirement age for women is 60 and 65 for men.

86.  Aconcagua is the highest mountain peak in the Americas at 6962 meters (22.841 feet).  They say it takes 10 -14 days to climb.

87.  Military time is used almost everywhere, as well as the metric system.

88.  Though the tango is the national dance, it is not nearly as popular as the salsa and cumbia.

89.  Foreign investment in Argentina is very common and supposedly very easy, especially for larger businesses that get incentives.

90.  In the area of San Juan, many mummies that are hundreds of years old have been found that look as if they just recently died.  Because of the cold and dry conditions of the area, the climate serves as a natural preserver.

91.  Ansilta was the oldest farming community in Argentina.  It was located in the San Juan province. 

92.  Dulce de Leche is a delicious and popular caramel-like syrup put in cakes, ice cream, candy and more.  It is made by heating milk and adding sugar.  Que rico!!

 93.    Most Argentines are of Spanish or Italian descent.  Like the U.S., most of the indigenous population has been eliminated.

94.    Alamo trees are abundant in many parts of the country.  They are tall and lean, and shield crops from the strong winds.

95.    The grapes are harvested in March.  Green grapes make vino blanco and champagne.  Purple grapes make vino tinto.

96.    On a guy’s 18^th birthday, it is a common ritual for his friends to shave his head.

97.    Instead of spankings on a birthday, Argentines pull your ears once for every year.

98.    Voting is obligatory.  If citizens don’t vote, they are fined and sometimes may have trouble when utilizing other government services.

99.    Rodocrosito or ‘Inca Rose’ is the national stone of Argentina.

100.          Women significantly outnumber the men.

101.  The new episodes of the TV season begin in Abril as opposed to September in the U.S.  Most shows come from the U.S. and a few from other countries.  Argentina does not have much original programming.

102.  Argentina has no idea what Mexican food is, or at least good Mexican food.

103.  When earning a degree similar to a B.A., students take classes related only to their major.  For example, if they choose English, they study only English.  Not math, science, etc...

104.  Women keep their maiden name after they are married but still add their husband´s name.

105.  Argentinos care little for the 'personal space' we cherish.  They are very affectionate people.

106. The siesta makes more sense when summer arrives, especially in San Juan where the temperature reaches 40 C durante mid-day.

107.  Though most of the food is delicious, there is little variety like we have in the U.S.

108.  The seasons are opposite of the U.S. when it is winter in Mississippi, it is summer in Buenos Aires.

109.  The reason there are so many FORD Falcons (#17) is because the military governments used them while they were in power.

110.  Jorge Luis Borges is considered Argentina's greatest writer.

111.  Seven Years in Tibet (with Brad Pitt) was actually filmed near Aconcagua instead of the Himalayas.

112.  Part of Highlander 2 was filmed in San Juan.

113.  Many vehicles use natural gas (GNC) in their car instead of liquid gasoline (NAFTA) because it is much cheaper. 

114.  The president lives in La Casa Rosada as opposed to the White House.

115.  The Dirty War (1976-1983) was a dark time in Argentina's history.  The military government kidnapped and sometimes killed tens of thousands of citizens.  Others simply disappeared (desaparecidos) as if they never existed.  This period still strongly weighs on Argentina's psyche.

116.  The Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) are a source of much contention between England and Argentina.  England currently has claim to them.

117.  Argentines and Chileans are always talking bad about each other.

118.  Martin Fierro, written by Jose Hernandez, is Argentina's most well known book.  It tells the story of the life of a gaucho.

119.  Manu Ginobili is considered a god here.

120.  The greatest athlete to ever come from Argentina is by far Diego Maradona.

121.  Forget receiving phone calls.  The Argentines love to text!  (It's cheaper too.)

122.  Argentina has a two-tier pricing system, especially in hotels, airports, national parks and other tourist related activities.  If you are a foreigner, expect to pay more.

123.  When you pay for anything, the cashier courteously counts your change back to you slowly.

124.  The south is much more expensive and difficult to travel than the north.  It is possible to get stuck in Patagonia for days at a time without transportation.  Many so called 'highways' are nothing but gravel roads.

125.  The bus system is excellent for the most part.  Much more comfortable and clean than in the U.S.

126.  Many Israelis travel South America after college, sort of a rite of passage into adulthood.  We have encountered many of them.

127.  Patagonia is the closest thing on earth to the Garden of Eden.

128.  Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the few glaciers in the world that is not melting.  It advances 2 meters a day!

129.  When people think of glaciers and the surrounding area, most automatically think the weather will be cold.  It's actually quite warm (at least in the summer).

130.  Many foreigners, especially North Americans, are buying up land in Patagonia.

131.  Many projects to dam the rivers in Patagonia for energy purposes (mostly for mining) are in the works.  This will do irreversible damage to the surrounding environment.

132.  Many mountain areas and forests have been burnt to make room for farms.  The result - the fires spread and thousands of acres of forest are needlessly burned.

133.  El lago Nahuel Huapi was formed by a glacier.

134.  Bariloche, one of the most beautiful places in Argentina (besides the rampant tourism), is also a favorite for seniors after graduation from high school.

135.  It is very common for children to live with their parents until they get married, even when they are adults.

136.  It is also very common for women to breast feed in public.

137.  The national parks have very well kept, extensive trail systems.

138.  The Alerce (a type of Cypress) is the largest tree in South America.  Many are hundreds of years old.

139.  El Bolsón grows the majority of the country´s hops and has many microbreweries.

140.  Though Quilmes is the favorite national beer (similar to Budweiser), in my humble opinion, Patagonia and Arancana are by far the best beers.

141.  Many nuclear experiments were carried out on Huemul Island (located in lago Nahuel Huapi) during the 40´s and 50´s.  Now it is a tourist spot. 

142.  Ushuaia is the southern most city in the world.

143.  In legal cases, lawyers are able to reference cases from the U.S. to argue points.

144.  Stray dogs, always seen in every part of the country and coexisting with humans peacefully, seem to have different personalities, perhaps from being free.

145. The skies are so clear in Barreal that two observatories (El Leoncito and Félix Aguilar) have been built to see into space.  The government has enforced strict measures against building in the area to avoid contamination and pollution in the air.

146.  Southern Right Whales, Tropical Penguins, Elephant Seals, and Sea Lions migrate to Penínsuña Valdés for part of the year.

147.  In Patagonia, it may be 10 or 11pm before it gets completely dark.  

148.  Want to get money from the ATM?  Be prepared to wait in a looonnng line most of the time.  The machines frequently run put of money.

149.  It is legal in many provinces to hunt the puma.

150.  The Rio Plata in Buenos Aires is the widest river in the world.

151.  En la nochebuena (Christmas Eve), families eat together, exchange gifts and after midnight, they shoot off fireworks.

152.  The heat and humidity in the province of Missiones (in the north) seems to have an effect on local residents.  They appear monotone and always fatigued.

153.  Arriving by plane to Missiones, one can see where large tracks of the jungle have been cleared for farms.

154.  Iguazu Falls (in Missiones) is the one of the largest waterfall systems in the world.  It consists of 275 individual falls that extend almost 3 kilometers.  Upon first sight, it makes you happy to be alive.

155.  The indigenous influence (Guarani Indians) is more evident in the north.

156. Waiters usually don't expect tips.  While waiters in the U.S. usually make sure to give customers small change, Argentine waiters do not. 

157.  If Argentines discipline their children, they definitely don't do it in public.  Kids seem to run loose.

158.  Soda Stereo is a legendary rock band ('National Rock') that reunited earlier this year for several concerts.  Everyone seems to love them.

159.  San Juan is famous for its Syrah wine.  The governor claims this was the type of wine drank at the last supper (Because the Syrah grape originated in that part of the world).

158.  Mendoza produces more wine than any other are of Argentina.  It is most famous for the Malbec grape.

159.  Because of the large hole in the ozone layer over Antarctica, the sun is stronger in Argentina, especially further south.

160.  Argentines, and especially porteños (people form Buenos Aires), use many lunfardo words in their vocabulary.  Lunfardo was a dialect supposedly created in prison to throw off the guards.  Eventually, it was made popular through the lyrics of Tango music and now it is used in everyday speech.  Even Spanish speakers from other countries often need a dictionary to translate.

161.  Many people say that after a man turns 35, he is old and it is very difficult to find a steady job.

162.  Beware of the hidden 'carga de mesa' (table charge) at restaurants in Buenos Aires.

163.  9th de Julio has 9 lanes and is considered the widest street in the world!

164.  El 9 de Julio, 1816, is Argentina's día de independencia.

165.  Alter World War II, Juan Peron allowed many Nazi war criminals amnesty in Argentina.

166.  Many presidents and other important historical figures, including Evita, are buried in Cementerio Recoleta in Buenos Aires.

167.  El Obelisco in Buenos Aires resembles the Washington Monument.  However, it stands only 67 meters, as opposed to the Washington Monument at 169 meters.

168.  The Argentine dialect of Spanish, often referred to as Rioplatense Spanish, has many influences from the Quechua and Guarani Indians.  It also features yeísmo, a characteristic where the ll sound and the y sound have merged into one.

169.  All private bathrooms (and some public) have bidets.

170.  Almost all big cities have casinos and lotteries.

171.  Plaza de Mayo, where the Casa Rosada is located, could use a good cleaning.  Does a dirty capital represent a dirty government?

172.  Argentina was the first Latin American country to legalize same sex marriage.

173.  Buenos Aires has 47 distinct barrios (neighborhoods).

174.  Carlos Gardel is considered by many people the greatest tango musician who ever lived.

Running with the Bulls Part II

After the Encierro my wife and I walked the cobblestone streets.  Random parades sprung up here and there and attracted followers singing ‘Seven Nation Army’ (fitting since everyone wore red and white) and other songs.  The local shops began to open their doors to make a fortune off tourists.  Suddenly the demographics of the festival changed.  The borrachos seemed to go into hibernating as families with strollers and children in their arms appeared from nowhere.  Not that the drunks had completely disappeared but I guess most of them needed to sober up for the upcoming night.

Which is the way we felt.  Tired to almost the point of delirium we walked back to the hotel and took in as much of Pamplona as possible on the way.  The city was peaceful and quiet just outside of the center with many beautiful views of the mountains.  I imagined that it was this way most of the year.

After a few hours sleep we were back in the city center.  As evening approached the families disappeared and the borrachos returned.  Feeling rested we contributed to the mayhem by buying a few 40 oz. San Miguels, the local cerveza.  Almost everyone walked the streets with big glass bottles of beer or a purple Kool-Aid looking drink.  The parades continued sporadically.  Street performers were ubiquitous.  Africans sold trinkets along the streets.   I wondered if these people traveled from festival to festival around Europe to make a living. 

As much as we wanted to stay and party all night I planned to rest up for my run.  Unfortunately, our neighbors in the hotel room next door had other plans as they sung the night away once again.  My banging on the wall only provoked them more.

The anxiety began in my dreams that night.  When barely asleep, dreams are much more lucid.  I tossed and turned.  I sweated.  The bulls were chasing me but as they approached, they suddenly stopped and lay down, as if they had given up.  The runners stopped and stared at them.  After the bovine remained still for a few minutes, we became brave enough to pet them on their heads.  They acted like tranquil dogs being rubbed by their owners.  What did this mean for my run?

The alarm on my IPhone made me get out of bed.  I was already as fully awake as possible without a good night’s sleep, excited and nervous about the run.  In minutes I was dressed and found myself jumping around in the small hotel room, stretching, doing whatever I could to wake myself up more fully or at least shake the drowsiness from my body. 

More familiar with the layout of things, we had time to grab a bocadillo and a cafe americano (much stronger in Spain) before Niki went up to her balcony. 

And then I was alone.  Ready.  Prepared, or at least I hoped.  Soon I was chatting with a couple of military guys from Idaho.  Before I knew it we had a not so small group of Americans all talking about traveling and what to expect during the run. 

El policia pushed us back into our small area between buildings while the streets were cleaned.  Time moved at a snail’s pace, and the more time passed, the more crowded we became, like trying to get close to the stage of a Radiohead concert (another story). You could see the looks of anticipation and anxiety in the runners’ eyes, at least those that were sober, and luckily this was most people.  The drunks, blatantly obvious in the crowd because they were loud and obnoxious, seemed to have no fear.  A group of Brits behind me turned up bottle after bottle of San Miguel, left the crowd and then returned with more.  There were at least 5 or 6 of them.  The rest of the crowd stared and we all hoped they would get caught.

The police began maneuvering through the crowd to pick out the borrachos and those unprepared to run because of proper attire.  How they missed the Brits was beyond me. 

What time was it?  Were they just going to let the bulls run through our bunched up crowd? I felt like I had been standing there a month.  Another American next to me explained how he had run the day before and gave us pointers, “Jump up and grab a window if you have to and pull yourself up.”  He showed us his gloves and then cuts on his hands underneath from the day before.  I looked at the windows.  They were in reach with a good jump.  Still I decided to stay on the side with the fence.  I knew for sure I could jump and climb over that if necessary. 

Finally we were let loose to spread out in the street.  I looked up at Niki and smiled.  “Only five minutes,” she mouthed with camera in hand.  I knew any pictures would be blurry so I didin’t even bother to tell her to take any.  The video on the camera didn’t work well either.

Three minutes.  The borrachos from England were busted.  After the crowd spread out, their bottles were visible.  The cops don’t play in Pamplona.  They grabbed each of them and forcibly led them out.  The more they protested the rougher the police acted. I walked back a bit to the beginning of Mercaderes.  I wanted to run, but not the most dangerous part. I figured the bulls would pass me before I hit Dead Man’s Corner.

One minute.  I’m jumping up and down, my heart is racing and ready to go.  I look around at other’s faces, some genuinely scared and others without an ounce of fear.  I’m somewhere in between but now I’m here and I’m ready and it’s too late to back out.  The rocket fires.  A mass rush of red and white.  People are already running but I don’t see any bulls yet.  The second rocket.  I try to wait until the bulls are in view, others hurrying past me.  The bulls are in sight.  Oh shit!  I’m running.  I avoid two pileups.  I look to my left and see massive black spots pass out of the corner of my eye.  And bam, it’s over.

Did I run 20 yards give or take a few?  I started to slow down to a jog.  No one looked too badly hurt, though I did see a couple of people showing off scratches on their legs and shins from falling.  The oxen passed with much less excitement.  A guy was carried out on a stretcher.  I continued my leisurely jog to the bullring.

 

As everyone entered the arena the gates were suddenly shut behind us and we were locked inside.  For the first time I was surprised.  I hadn’t read about this part. There were probably a couple of hundred people in the ring with me, not to mention the thousand or so spectators, so I wasn’t nervous, but I definitely wondered what came next.  Most of the others appeared to know what was about to happen.

Suddenly, from one of the doors, a bull rushed out, ready and rearing.  He looked scared to death as he charged anyone in view.  The spectators roared.  Most runners in the bullring kept their distance except the few who charged the bull!  They grabbed his horns and tried to ride.  They slapped him on his head.  They got right in front and jeered him until he became angrier. 

Not quite as large as the other bulls in the Encierro, the bovine looked frightened to death.  His horns were taped but it didn’t keep him from charging aimlessly and violently towards the hecklers.  After several minutes an ox came out with a bell around its neck and the bull quickly followed him back inside his hole.

Then came the second bull, a little fiercer.  I kept my distance but found myself being drawn closer and closer to the bull.  It resembled a rodeo more than a bullfight.  Crazy people tried to mount the bull and ride.  Others stopped and pulled their cameras and phones out to record.  This seemed as dangerous as playing with the bull because any time he came close they ran in the opposite direction, often knocking people over to get away.

A third bull.  A fourth.  Every time a little fiercer.  By now we were all dusty.  I noticed a few spots in the ring where blood had stained the ground.  Whether from the bull fight the night before or a recent injury was uncertain but plenty of bodies were getting slung around and hurt.   If someone started getting trampled or gored a mob would hit and kick at the bull to distract him until he left that poor soul alone. 

A fifth bull, full of energy and ready to wound someone.  More people were getting hurt now than in the Encierro.  It was easy to avoid the bulls but many people wanted their chance to impress the crowd or just liked the adrenaline rush.  Some people had gotten brave enough to lie in front of the door where the bulls exited.  Crazy, right?

And woe to those who grabbed the tails of slapped the bulls on the ass.  They were booed by the crowd and often hit hard by the local Spanish with a rolled up newspaper.  One fellow proved clueless as several locals pounded him.  He disappeared into the crowd and left the bulls alone for the rest of the event.

The sixth and final bull looked prepared to kill.  Did they let the meaner ones out last on purpose?  I had no idea, but I found myself ready to leave the ring.  After seeing people pick up dirt and throw it in the bull’s face I was done with this part of the festivities.  Sure, it was a rush to run with the bulls and try to escape from them in the arena but by now I found myself feeling sorry for them.  I understand its Spanish tradition and to each culture its own.  I had seen a bull fight before and had applauded when the bull got the better of the torero.  The locals had given me an evil eye. 

But what can I say?  Maybe as a child I tortured cats and shots birds with my BB gun, but as an adult I have grown a conscious and feel the senseless ridicule of an animal is unjust and debasing.  As Gandhi said, “You can judge a society by how it treats its animals.”

Not that I’m a vegetarian and we could easily discuss what cows, pigs and chickens and such go through before they are killed for our eating pleasure.  But maybe that adheres to the out of sight out of mind aphorism.  I would find it hard to give up steak and hamburgers.

So how did the topic shift so quickly?  Where were we?  Oh yeah, the running of the bulls.  I was prepared.  And it pretty much happened exactly as I thought it would.  Like a Disneyland ride, you wait and wait and get excited and then in a few short minutes its over.  That pretty much sums it up.  Was it worth it? 

Definitely.  If not only the run itself, then the continual party in the streets and the chance to witness a staple of Spanish culture.  Not to mention bragging rights.  It’s worth a visit, at least once or twice in a lifetime.  I plan to return one day.