25 Things about Albuquerque, New Mexico

Our family has been in Albuquerque, New Mexico, for almost a month. Like many largely populated areas, the city has a lot of issues, but it also has a wealth of history and culture, which make it ripe to write about. Here are some things I’ve learned or noticed so far…

1.      Albuquerque has two nicknames (maybe more):  ABQ and Duke City.

2.      It is called ‘Duke City’ because it was named after a Spanish Duke, Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva.                                                                                                                                                                                

3.      The TV shows Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul were filmed here, two of my favorites!

4.      Los Pollos Hermanos from Breaking Bad is really Twisters, a local restaurant chain that serves burgers and burritos.                                                                                                                                                

5.      The Sandia Mountains border the east of Albuquerque.  The setting sun gives the mountains a reddish tint like watermelon, sandia in Spanish.

6.   The road runner is the state bird.  I’ve seen quite a few running around in the neighborhoods.  Seeing them always reminds me of Loony Tunes!                                                                                                                                                      

7.      It is illegal to give the homeless or anybody else money at street corners.  This doesn’t keep the large number of homeless in Albuquerque from asking all over the city. 

8.      Built more than 300 years ago, the San Felipe De Neri Church is the oldest building in town. 

9.      At 5312 feet, ABQ is the highest metropolitan city in America.

10.  At one point during the Civil War Albuquerque was under control of the Confederate States of America. 

11.  Rather than Christmas lights during the holidays, many people hang luminarias around the city and their homes.  These are brown paper bags with candles in them.

12.  The climate in ABQ is said to be one of the best in the USA.  300+ days of sunshine, dry with warm days and cools nights.  We have been here a month and have seen only one cloudy day!

13.  Speaking of weather, when tuberculosis was a national epidemic in the 1910’s, easterners flocked to Albuquerque because they thought the climate would help.  Sanitoriums were built all around the city.

14.  I have driven in a lot of large cities all over the world, places like Paris and Mexico City.  Albuquerque drivers are some of the rudest I have ever encountered. 

15. Albuquerque is the Hot Air Balloon Capital of the world. 500+ hot air balloons from all over the world compete annually in October.                                                                                                             

16.  Paragliding is another popular sport.  It is common to see paragliders near the Sandia mountains. Remember Wile E. Coyote?      

                                                                                

17.  New Mexico was the second to last state admitted to the contiguous United States.  It was 47^th and Arizona was 48^th.  Statehood was postponed so long for fear of Native Americans and Hispanics not being able to ‘assimilate’.                                                                                                     

18.  Carlsbad Caverns, one of the wonders of the world, is located about 300 miles south of Albuquerque.                                                                                                                                                                   

19.  Kirtland Air Force Base, the sixth largest Air Force installation in the United States, is located in Albuquerque.                                                                                                                                                 

20.  There are so many different types of restaurants, more eclectic than almost anywhere I have been, especially with a Latin American influence.  I’ll never be able to try them all! 

21.  Albuquerque is in the heart of Indian pueblo country -- the oldest farming civilization on the North American continent.                                                                                                                          

22.  The famous river that serves as a natural border between Mexico and the USA, the Rio Grande, runs through Albuquerque.        

                                                                                                           

23.  The cofounder of Etsy, Jared Tarbell, is a native of ABQ.                                                                           

24.  There are five volcanic cones that are easily visible from the city.  They have been extinct for thousands of years.                                                                                                                                                               

25.  The Petroglyph National Monument border the west side of ABQ.  The rocks there contain over 20,000 carved images dating from a few hundred years old to at least a few millennia. 

The Truth About Santa

What age do we tell our children the truth about Santa?  Do we let them find out from friends or some mean kid that wants to ruin everyone else’s Christmas like the Grinch?

Our moment all happened because of Wyatt, our Elf on the Shelf.  For seven or eight years he came to our home the day after Thanksgiving.  For a month or more in between my wife and I had to put on our thinking caps to be creative and make him do something differently every day.  Yeah, we cheated sometimes by ‘borrowing’ ideas from friends, Pinterest, or Facebook.  Sometimes it was fun.  Other times it was a pain in the ass. 

Why do kids believe in some things and not others?  Why do they believe an elf made from plastic can be real and fly back and forth from the North Pole every night, yet there is no such thing as a zombie?  To me, zombies seem a lot more believable!  Do kids (and people in general) believe what they want, what makes them feel good?

 

All parents want to shield their children from uncomfortable situations.  Before my daughter was born, I remember telling my mother that I would never ever tell my child the ‘lies’ about Santa.  It made her sad, but I remembered how deep it cut when she told me the truth.  My mother read a book which explained the ‘magic of Santa’.  Afterwards, I went to my room and cried and vowed never to lie to my own children.

Never say never.  Fast forward to the present.  Somehow, I rationalized the joys of Santa and the several years my daughters believed were wonderful.  Christmas mornings were magical as their faces lit up.  The best part though was the build up to Christmas during the holiday season.  My girls maintained an almost constant level of excitement.  They even seemed to behave better to make sure Santa brought what they wanted!

When we talked about telling our kids the truth our hearts sank.  Is it just that parents don’t want their children to grow up?  The ‘talk’ seemed so difficult and we were so worried about the right way to do it.  We used Santa as an ‘idea’ that had evolved over time.  We talked about the history of St. Nick and how he secretly gave to the poor.  We explained how other cultures do not use Santa but have similar ideas about giving during the holidays.

“It’s about sharing and being selfless.  You all can be Santas too, not just during the holidays, but the entire year.”

In our minds our spiel sounded great as we presented it, but I don’t think my daughters really accepted the truth.  In fact, my youngest flat out did not get what we were trying to say.  She just started sharing amusing stories about the elves her teachers had used in the classroom.

Nevertheless, my oldest, Sofiah, still cried when Wyatt was not there the next morning.  Again, we tried to explain the concept of ‘Santa’, this time being more forward.  She cried hard in momma’s arms for at least ten minutes.  Then she locked herself in her room for another twenty.  Had we screwed up?  Was there a better way to break the news?  Should I have gone with my first instinct and never started the ‘Santa escapade’ in the first place?

Half an hour later Sofiah came out of her room and seemed fine.  Her Christmas spirit had not been vanquished.  In fact, she helped Kaia make an entire bedroom suite for our new elf.  Every day since, the girls have looked for the elf first thing in the morning. They have barely mentioned Wyatt.

And so I realize that discovering ‘truth’ is all part of growing up.  I think we as parents worry too much.  Probably we want our kids to stay innocent forever.  No doubt the world is a crazy place and we want to shield them from the harmful stuff as long as possible.  But there are tougher issues to deal with in life than finding out that the jolly fat man who gives gifts is not a real person. 

Kids deal with the truth in their own way.  Our goal should be to make them resilient and strong enough to deal with the good and bad aspects of reality.  We should also stimulate their imagination. Maybe the years of believing in an old fat man coming down the chimney are over, but what we told our girls still rings true.  Santa is an idea, a time of year to reflect on how we should be year-round; selfless, compassionate, and sharing.  

8 Things We Can ALL Do to Better Enjoy Our National Parks

Most individuals who camp and hike a lot share similar mindsets.  We share an appreciation for nature and a love for adventure.  We make every effort to sustain and even regenerate our environment.  We are friendly and share a mutual respect.

              Probably most outdoor lovers agree that every individual has the right to get outside and appreciate nature.   However, we also realize that a record number of visitors to our National Parks strain the areas.  After visiting so many parks, sometimes I think people just don’t know how or maybe they don’t care.   

But these open spaces are important.  We want them to be around for future generations to enjoy.  Rangers do their best to inform visitors.  Interpretive and informational signs are posted everywhere throughout most parks. 

Still, many visitors pay no mind or do not care which is a shame.  They complain about a lack of bathrooms, water fountains, and transportation inside the park.  They fail to realize that these areas were meant to be kept wild.  Many of them want a ‘Disneyland’ like experience.  Those people should go elsewhere.

But for the rest, the people who really want the natural experience, there are things we can all do to make the parks and the trails a more enjoyable for ourselves and everyone else. Like most aspects of life, a little self-respect and mutual respect go a long way in this world, towards each other and towards our natural world. Here are 8 simple things I think would help:

1.      Always bring your own water

This has to be the most important of all the rules and basically common sense.  The body can live without water for 3 days and most people will not be hiking for that long but why punish yourself?  Use common sense and bring liquids.  Don’t expect there to be water fountains along the trail!

2.      Bring snacks

Ever heard the rule of 3s?  3 minutes without air, 3 days without water, and 3 weeks without food.  But again, if you are taking a hike, especially a longer one, it’s much more enjoyable to take a break in the shade and snack on trail mix, fruit, or even chips. Listen to the sounds around you and watch for wildlife while you enjoy a snack.

3.      Stay on the right side of the trail

Since elementary school I was always told to walk to the right in the hall.  In traffic we stay in the right lane if we are slower.  Even at Disney World we were told to walk to the right so all the people could get through easier!  The same applies on the trail, especially when crowded.

4.      Give older people and children the right of way.

I have tremendous respect for someone who is in their 60s or beyond walking a difficult trail.  It shows willpower and toughness.  I can only hope that I am still doing the same at that age.  And children, well, I think it’s obvious that they are not quite as capable and are not always considerate as adults.  But they learn.  Step aside or go around them.  Have patience.  And finally, let those who are faster (no matter what age) pass you.  Simply step over to the side until they walk past. 

5.      Don’t shit on the trail

I think it’s kind of cool to try and figure out what type of scat I see on the ground.  A horse is usually obvious but deer, elk or even bear are less frequent.   Remember, this is their habitat, their house.  They can go wherever they want.  But human scat?  We all have to go, but the rule is 100 feet from the trail and at least 100 feet from a water source.  Pets should follow the same rules or at least bring something to pick up after them!

6.      Don’t feed the animals

In many parks it is illegal to feed the animals.  Why?  First of all, it can be dangerous.  Those cute little squirrels carry diseases.  Bambi as an adult can jab you with his antlers.  Unlikely, but possible.  But then again, let Darwinism do its work. 

A ranger once told me that the only death he had witnessed from a wild animal was when a couple was trying to take a selfie with their child and a deer.  The deer killed the child.  Our food is unhealthy for them anyway, and when we feed them, they often become dependent on us.   

7.      Get out of the main areas

I listen to rangers.  In fact, I have never met one that isn’t polite.  Another ranger  told me that only 5% of visitors get out of the main areas and onto the real trails. They drive along the main roads and stop at the vistas and such.  If you are one of those 5% who get into the heart of the parks, you know how rewarding hiking the real trails can be.  If you are one of the 95%, get your ass out and explore!

8.      Pack in Pack out

At the Grand Canyon I was amazed at how much trash I saw lying around.  Whatever you take into the backcountry (or anywhere into the park) bring it back out.  Throw it away.  Why trash such a beautiful area?  Sure, accidents happen, but bring a plastic bag or something to put your trash in and carry it out.  

On Roadschool...

“How hard can it be?  I have been teaching for over 15 years.”

              This is what I told myself as I began reading a number of education books, including a few homeschool and unschooling books.  Truthfully, I was nervous as hell.  All the typical questions crossed my mind.  What about socialization?  Can I teach them what they need to know?  Will they fall behind in certain subjects? 

From the experience of teaching at a diverse, academically challenging, and prestigious school, I realized from the beginning that I could never outmatch the number of talented teachers and resources available at such an institution.  Yet I still felt the experiences and opportunities of traveling would shape the mind of my daughters in a unique manner and in many ways put them ahead of other children.

              But all of those books I read failed to tell me what the future held, mostly because those parents are still in the process of homeschooling.  Did their kids turn out successful?  In what way?  How can we know as adults and parents if we are making the right decisions?  We have no crystal ball and we all want the best for our children.  How do we even measure success? 

Over the course of my teaching career I have met many students that came from homeschooling environments.  Most of them adapted well socially and academically.  Many of the kids were on par or even more astute in the classroom.  They thought outside of the box, from a different angle than other kids. 

What I would have given for the opportunity to endlessly travel as a child!  Globetrotting all over the world and spending time with my parents, witnessing the beauty of our country and others, so vast and with endless adventures.  My vacations as a child consisted of a trip to Biloxi Beach, MS.  A couple of times we were lucky enough to visit Disney World.  Most people do not travel far from their homes yet there is so much to see, so much to behold and experience. 

Will my daughters feel the same way I do about travel when they are older?  Will they appreciate this experience I feel is a gift or will they resent me forever?  Will they become better stewards of the earth, appreciate nature more, and develop a unique mindset most others will never possess? Will these travels give them an edge?

So many unanswered questions.  Time will tell, and I can only hope for the best.  But for the present (which is my preferred state of mind) I will enjoy the ride…

Leaving Montana...

Missoula greeted us with a haze in the sky.  Only the outline of the mountains was visible, as if hiding behind a thin white bedsheet.  At times, a campfire smell was strong in the air.  I thought it was out of the ordinary, but according to the locals, the smoke appears almost every summer.  “This year is worse,” they told me, “but from late July until September, or sometimes until the first snow, nearby wildfires drop a blanket of smoke in the valley.”

During the first week we saw no blue sky.  Everything looked dingy and dusty, a dryness I have never known.  One morning we awoke to find our car lightly covered in ashes!  I thought to myself, “Twenty years ago, I traveled to Montana during early June.  The rolling hills and mountains were green like the lawns that people fertilize because they want perfect grass, except in Montana it was natural and beautiful, teeming with life and not forced and fake.  What had happened to this beautiful landscape since then?”

A growing city of around 75,000, Missoula did not leave a good first impression.  A large number of homeless loitered in the downtown streets and in the parks, some of them living out of their cars or old, vividly painted school buses and campers.  Rundown buildings and homes were scattered around town.  Old and new structures conflicted as if there had been no sense of foresight during development, no zoning plans whatsoever. 

Yet the drive to Missoula and everything around it had been so amazingly stunning.  From Mississippi through states like Missouri, Minnesota, Wyoming, and the Dakotas we traveled. I was pleasantly surprised to find beauty even in the endless green cornfields of Iowa.  In our minds, we were hoping we had not made a mistake by choosing Missoula as our first destination.

Before we realized it, the city had grown on us rather quickly and for numerous reasons. Surrounding us were areas chockfull of natural beauty like we had never experienced: wildlife everywhere; clear and pristine lakes, rivers and streams; glorious mountains rising to reach the big sky.  Places like Glacier and Yellowstone National Park, God’s playgrounds, were only a short drive away. 

Even inside Missoula the culture began to take hold of us.  The people were eclectic and unpretentious.  They were friendly and accepting, with no look of suspicion in their eyes.  Every type of character fit in, from the most conventional to the most bizarre.

The neighborhoods had small yards and overpriced homes, but every inch was utilized for vegetables or some other endeavor.  Permaculture, homesteading, and mindfulness were not taboo or new age vernacular but a way of life.  Pedestrians had the right of way, and there were so many bikes that shops such as Free Cycles give them away!

Instead of the typical cookie cutter businesses were local indie bookstores, coffee shops, breweries, and the like.  They thrived because the locals fervently supported them.  In parts of the city chain stores existed, but not as many and not at every corner like in so many other towns and cities.

Almost all of the vehicles had some type of extra rack for luggage, bicycles, kayaks, or whatever else screamed to play outside.  No one seemed to care for luxury vehicles or fancy clothes, as long as they got to spend time in the outdoors, so passionate about nature.

 I saw kids that could barely walk riding their bikes and attempting to rock climb.  Students played in the chilly rain at recess while the teachers watched.  The weather did not bother them!  Hardy, tough Montanans, at all ages.  I was so jealous at first.  “They get to grow up here,” I thought to myself.  “Why can’t I have been that lucky.”

Children are malleable and even my daughters became tougher in Missoula.  When we first arrived, they went to a week-long camp, MOLA, and every day they engaged in a different outdoor activity – whitewater rafting, kayaking, rock climbing, hiking, swimming.  Again, I was so jealous!  The camp sparked a fire in them.  Ever since they have played outside more than they ever did back in Mississippi. 

Every place is unique, but some possess an energy and capture your soul, your imagination.  Missoula is one of those places.  The city will always hold a special place in my heart.  And my family and I just may return one day soon.  

25+ More Things about Missoula (& Montana)

26.     In 1860 Missoula was established as Hellgate Trading Post.

27.     Missoula is also known by its nickname ‘ZooTown’. 

28.     Fort Missoula was home to an Italian and Japanese internment camp during World War II.

29.     After the war, many Italians remained in Missoula and made a life for themselves.  None of the Japanese stayed. 

30.     The largest Smokejumper base in the United States is located in Missoula.

31.     Almost every electric box around town is painted with a very colorful & creative mural.

32.     Brennans’s Wave, a man-made wave/rapid on the Clark Fork river, is often surfed! 

33.     I have never seen as many Golden Retrievers in any area.  It seems almost everyone who owns a dog has one.  Or a Huskie.                                                                                                      

34.     There are hundreds of ‘love’ locks on the Madison Street Footbridge.  They symbolize unbreakable love.

35.  The Northern Pacific Railroad is a major reason why Missoula became a larger town.

36.  Montana residents claimed 32 million acres under the Homestead Act, more than any other state.

37.  Missoula is the second most populated city in Montana with around 70-80,000 people.  Billing is first with a bit over 100,000.

38.  A ‘Gully Washer’ is a very heavy rainstorm, something I have yet to see in Montana.

39.  Trucks and guns are as ubiquitous as they are where I come from (Mississippi).

40.  At one time, when Montana mined copper, the capital Helena was home to more millionaires per capita than anywhere in the world!

41.  Missoulians are resourceful.  They reuse a significant amount of scrap metal and other material for arts, crafts, or parts for something else.  Reminds me of Cubans!                        

42.  Montana has almost 15,000 miles of marked hiking trails, second only to California.

43.  The current governor of Montana, Steve Bullock, is from Missoula. 

44.  The Flathead Indian Reservation is the closest Indian Reservation to Missoula. There are seven reservations in total in Montana.                                                                                              

45.  Missoula was one of the few counties that voted Democrat in the 2016 election.  Overall, the state voted Trump.

46.  Forget the fake green, fertilized lawns in a neighborhood.  Missoulians utilize almost every inch of their yards for gardening and other productive purposes.

47.  Gambling is legal is Montana.  There are a lot of casinos!

48.  Starbucks is here but it is not very ubiquitous.  Instead, many local coffee shops are scattered through town.  In fact, residents enthusiastically support many local businesses around town.

49.  Not one, but three rivers run through Missoula; the Clark Fork, the Bitterroot, and the Blackfoot.

50.  The population of elk and deer outnumber the human population in Montana

51.  Most Missoulians do not seem to care about luxury items.  They drive older cars, live in smaller houses, etc.  They just care about getting outside and enjoying nature!